Thirty Years Warre | 1994 vintage wines

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“There is always an unassailable financial imperative to make as much (good) wine as possible. In 1994, it would have cost a First Growth château (like Mouton Rothschild) 2 million francs (about £200,000) to declassify (i.e. not sell as the ‘Grand Vin’) a 150-hectolitre / 20,000-bottle vat of wine…”
The 1994 Bordeaux harvest was small.

If the Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes were picked before (or after) the September rains, the quality was good.

But Cabernet Sauvignon takes longer to ripen properly, so some winemakers left it until October, trying to dodge the rainfall.

Château Mouton Rothschild managed to bring in its grapes without them getting too wet and made a very good wine in 1994 – comparable to the 1988.

In the Douro Valley of Portugal, 1994 was a widely “declared” vintage that produced classic Port wines of great richness and longevity, such as Dow’sSmith Woodhouse, and Warre’s.
Since a standard 75cl bottle is not large enough to share, we suggest trying a 1.5-litre magnum bottle of 1994 Quinta do Passadouro Vintage Port, brought to life by the great Douro winemaker Dirk Niepoort.
We also have available magnums of the outstanding Lebanese red wine Chateau Musar.

Its 1994 vintage was made in the aftermath of a late summer heatwave.

The resulting wine was, according to Musar itself, “intense (and) richly-concentrated” – which is not always the case with 30-year olds…

SEE ARDEN’S 30-YEAR OLDS HERE
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Nineteen Eighty-Four… | Mouton Rothschild 1984 and other 40-year olds

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Oh to be 40 again…

But 40-year olds have as much luck as I do with (my slightly older) “4” vintage for red Bordeaux wines.

Cold, dry weather in February, March, and May; a sunny April, June, July, and August that caused the grapes to ripen slowly and unevenly (because of the sudden changes of temperature); cold and wet weather in September; and then Hurricane Hortense uprooted trees and caused widespread power failures in early October.

The Merlot grapes in the Médoc were mostly unusable in 1984 but this was not really an issue for Mouton Rothschild, where very little Merlot goes into the finished Cabernet Sauvignon-focused wine.

On that basis, it might be the best wine of this tricky Bordeaux vintage.

  • Château Mouton Rothschild 1984 label
    Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1984 (1 x 75cl bottle) PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR THIS WINE!

However, we advise anybody purchasing a nice bottle for a 40th birthday or anniversary this year that the best quality will be found with Californian red wines, such as Dominus.

Port from 1984 is also a highly intelligent purchase – like Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha.

  • 1984 Warre Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port
    1984 Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port (1 x 75cl)
    £191.96
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When I’m ’64 | Tokaji 1964 from Monimpex

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Monimpex was the only Hungarian company with an export licence during the period of “Goulash Communism” that followed the 1956 Revolution.

János Kádár – First Secretary of the Hungarian Socialist Workers’ Party – instigated policies to create good living standards for the people of Hungary (= eating goulash and drinking Tokaji 😋).

The Aszú 3 Puttonyos here has a darker colour than the Szamorodni because of the much higher sugar content – probably 60 grams per litre / 6%, compared to the less than 10 grams / 1% of the dry Szamorodni.

These two lovely bottles of 1964 Tokaji came to Arden Fine Wines from (an even lovelier) Parisienne friend of a friend, whose father had owned them for some years after they were gifted to him.

He only bought French wines, of course… 😉

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Anniversary Vintage Wines for 2024

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Anniversary Vintage Wines for 2024 from Arden Fine Wines in Mayfair, London.

The 2024 edition of “Anniversary Vintage Wines” arrives at a time of economic and geopolitical uncertainty.

Russia’s terrible war in Ukraine ground ahead, and a horrific new conflict erupted in the Middle East.

Rising inflation, higher interest rates, climate change, military conflict, and slower growth provide a challenging backdrop for the fine wine market.

But how about a vintage bottle for a special birthday or anniversary in 2024?

2014: Fourteen pounds in a stone

Drinking fine wine – something that can age and improve – that’s only ten years old is considered to be infanticide at Arden Fine Wines. We offer very few bottles post-2010.

Nonetheless, it was a very good year in most of the world’s significant wine regions.

For Bordeaux, 2014 was the best-rated “off” vintage since 2005 and remains the second (after 2013) least-expensive post-2005 vintage currently available.

Please contact us if you’re looking for Bordeaux or other 2014 vintage wines.

  • Portrait of Domaine Leroy | Lalou Bize-Leroy
    2014 Domaine Leroy Romanée-Saint-Vivant (3 x 75cl in original wood case) SOLD

2004: Fantastico Four

Such is the improvement in winemaking techniques since the 1990s that “bad” vintages that would have been rain-drenched write-offs in the 1970s and before are now highly acceptable.

Bordeaux produced some good wines in 2004, though Burgundy was underwhelming because of a cold spell in June that delayed the flowering of the grapevines. On the whole, white Burgundy wines were better than the reds.

Barolo had an outstanding year in 2004, with some superb examples made of this great Italian wine.

  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet from Arden Fine Wines in Mayfair, London
    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 2004 (2 x 75cl)
    £15,960.00
  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échézeaux from Arden Fine Wines in Mayfair, London
    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échézeaux 2004 (1 x 75cl)
    £3,090.00
  • Buy Château Mouton Rothschild 2004 from Arden Fine Wines in Mayfair, London. Mouton Rothschild 2001 price. Chateau Mouton Rothschild labels. Mouton Rothschild 2004 label. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2004.
    Château Mouton Rothschild 2004 (1 x 75cl) PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR 2004 MOUTON!
  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti 1953 from Arden Fine Wines in Mayfair, London. Domaine de la Romanée Conti wine. Romanée-Conti wine price. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti price. Romanee Conti wine for sale. DRC Romanee Conti price.
    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti 2004 (1 x 75cl)
    £22,710.00
  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 2004 from Arden Fine Wines in Mayfair, London. Romanée-Conti Montrachet 2004 price. DRC Montrachet wine price. DRC Montrachet 2004 price. DRC Montrachet Grand Cru. Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet Grand Cru.
    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 2004 (3 x 75cl wooden case)
    £31,200.00

1994: A Safe Port

The Right Bank (north of the River Dordogne), where the Merlot grapes ripen earlier than the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in the Médoc (south of the Dordogne), was by far the most successful Bordeaux winemaking area.

This year was also good for German Rieslings and for Tuscany, where it was the first vintage of Sassicaia to be released as Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC.

California had an excellent year.

But the best wines of 1994 were Vintage Ports, which are of exceptional quality and value for money.

  • Château Cheval Blanc 1994 for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Cheval Blanc 1994 PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR 1994 CHEVAL BLANC
  • Chateau Haut-Brion wine for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Chateau Haut-Brion 1994 (1 x 75cl) PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR THIS WINE!
  • Château Lafite Rothschild wine for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Lafite Rothschild 1994 (1 x 75cl)
    £694.80
  • Le Pin Pomerol logo
    1994 Le Pin Pomerol for sale PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR THIS WINE
  • Petrus Pomerol by Valentino Monticello in Bacchus and Ariadne
    1994 Petrus Pomerol | PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THIS WINE
  • Château Mouton Rothschild 1994 label by Karel Appel
    Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1994 (1 x 75cl) PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR THIS WINE!

1984: Dystopia

With the possible exception of 1987, this was the worst vintage of the decade in Bordeaux.

The 1984 grape-growing year in Bordeaux sounds like something from a dystopian novel by George Orwell.

There was cold, dry weather in February, March, and May; a sunny April, June, July, and August that caused the grapes to ripen slowly and unevenly (because of the sudden changes of temperature); cold and wet weather in September; and then Hurricane Hortense (named after Napoleon’s step-daughter) uprooted trees and caused widespread power failures in early October.

The final Orwellian twist to our vinous version of Nineteen Eighty-Four was the release prices of the 1984 First Growths, which were twice as high as the superior 1982s. Nowadays the 1982s are usually three times the price of the 1984s – with Lafite’s 1982 up to six times the price of its 1984. (At Arden Fine Wines the 1984-1982 Lafite multiple is x 4.)

The best bet is again the Douro. It was not a Declared Vintage but Single Quinta Port wines of 1984 are worth a try.

  • La Tâche price. La Tâche wine for sale. La Tâche for sale. La Tâche wine price.
    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 1984 (1 x 75cl)
    £3,600.00
  • Château Lafite Rothschild wine for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Lafite Rothschild 1984 (1 x 75cl) PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR THIS WINE!
  • Petrus Pomerol by Valentino Monticello in Bacchus and Ariadne
    1984 Petrus Pomerol (1 x 75cl)
    £2,340.00

1974: Fifty Shades of Grey

The April 1975 Sichel & Co “Bordeaux and Burgundy Vintage and Market Report” stated that the 1974 Bordeaux wines were “the unwanted orphans of a shattered marketplace”.

As with 1984, it was probably the worst vintage of the decade in Bordeaux.

However, there have been some pleasant surprises on my travels. Domaine de Chevalier 1974 was tasted (drunk with dinner, actually) with Olivier and Anne Bernard at the Domaine in Léognan. Even Oliver said that it was good.

Romanée-Conti 1974 is notable only for its embossed bottle. I have seen bottles of the 1974 with labels stuck over the embossed “DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE CONTI” in an attempt to present (usually) a counterfeit 1971 or 1978.

It was such a poor vintage that DRC does not even bother to list on its website how many bottles it produced in 1974 – and we do not list any Arden Fine Wines.

The get out of jail card for 50-year olds is California, which had a wondrous year in 1974. The best-regarded wine of this great Californian vintage is Heitz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon from Martha’s Vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountains, just south of Oakville.

A wonderful 50-year old – thank you Martha.

  • Chateau Haut-Brion wine for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Chateau Haut-Brion 1974 (1 x 75cl)
    £660.00
  • Château Latour for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Latour 1974 (1 x 75cl)
  • Château Lafite Rothschild wine for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Lafite Rothschild 1974 (1 x 75cl)
  • Château Mouton Rothschild 1974 label by Robert Motherwell
    1974 Château Mouton Rothschild (1 x 75cl)
    £675.00
  • 1974 Chateau Musar front label
    1974 Chateau Musar (6 x 75cl)
    £2,280.00

1964: “Birthday greetings, bottle of wine…” 

There was torrential localised rain in the Médoc in October 1964 that drenched vineyards in Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe.

Château Latour managed to pick its grapes before the rain – unlike its Pauillac neighbours Château Lafite, Château Mouton Rothschild(label design by Henry Moore), and (especially) Château Lynch-Bages – and made a top-class claret.

The 1964 vintage is also notable as the first year that Latour used stainless-steel to make its wine (though Château Haut-Brion had used them from 1961).

The weather was much more clement east of the river Garonne. In Pomerol, Pétrus made an outstanding wine in 1964.

There was no Vintage Port in 1964, though Colheitas (single-vintage Tawny Port) are widely available and well worth a look.

For red Burgundy, it was a very good vintage.

My late friend and colleague Nick Belfrage MW said that 1964 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was outstanding.

Two lovely bottles of 1964 Monimpex Tokaji came to Arden Fine Wines from (an even lovelier) Parisienne friend of a friend, whose father had owned them for some years after they were gifted to him. He only bought French wines, of course.

  • Carruades de Lafite for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Carruades de Lafite 1964 (1 x 75cl) PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR THIS WINE
  • Château Latour for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Latour 1964 (1 x 75cl)
  • Château Lafite Rothschild wine for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Lafite Rothschild 1964 (1 x 75cl)
  • 1964 Pol Roger Champagne
    1964 Pol Roger (1 x bottle)
    £540.00
  • Chateau Musar 1959 & 1964 front
    1964 Chateau Musar (6 x 75cl)
    £6,478.00

1954: Seventy Souls

The May 1955 Sichel & Co “Bordeaux and Burgundy Vintage and Market Report” noted 1954 as a “mediocre vintage” that was initially offered at the same price as the much superior 1953. For Burgundy, “to our regret we have not found any wines on the Côte d’Or which we can recommend to our UK customers”.

For French wines, this vintage is of historic interest only. On 7th October 1954, the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO) agreed to take responsibility for handling the classification of Saint-Émilion wine.

The 1954 Port harvest was not generally declared but some excellent Single Quinta Vintage Port was bottled.

  • Château Latour for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Latour 1954 (1 x 75cl)
    £873.60
  • Château Lafite Rothschild wine for sale at Arden Fine Wines
    Château Lafite Rothschild 1954 (1 x 75cl)
  • 1954 Château d'Yquem Sauternes at Arden Fine Wines
    1954 Château d’Yquem Sauternes (1 x 75cl)
    £2,755.00
  • Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1954 label by Jean Carzou
    1954 Château Mouton Rothschild (1 x 75cl)
    £5,400.00

1944 and 1934: Crimea and Punishment

I have two tasting notes for wines from 1944 and 1934, both of which came from – as it always has been for anybody born after 1954 – Ukraine.

A winery at Massandra, near Yalta on the Black Sea coast of Crimea, has existed since the mid-19th century.

It was built to supply wines for the Tsar’s Summer Palace at Livadia, also near Yalta, and catered for every conceivable vinous need of the Tsar: wines for Church Communion, for the Court, for social functions, and for the Tsar’s own personal consumption.

Massandra Collection Ayu-Dag Kagor 1944 was named for Ayu Dag, or “Bear Mountain”. “Kagor” was allegedly named after the French red wine Cahors.

Like many of the old Massandra bottlings, this 1944 wine was very sweet, with 190 grams per litre (or 19%) of sugar.

Massandra Gurzuf Rose Muscat 1934 came to Arden Fine Wines from an auction in Lancashire.

Gurzuf is a small town just east of Yalta, where one of the Massandra wineries was established in 1921.

According to its Cyrillic label, the 1934 Muscat was “Additionally aged 66 years”, so probably released for sale in 2000.

The stated alcohol level is 11.6% and the sugar content is “24.0”, or 24%. A trip to a dentist might be needed after tasting or drinking this special wine.

From Madeira, Leacock’s “SJ” 1934 was made with unknown grapes from the São João (SJ) vineyard in which the wonderfully named Thomas Slapp Leacock (1817-1883) found a cure for Phylloxera –a louse that destroys vines – in 1872. This 1934 wine was dry, warm, and long in flavour.

A small amount of very good Vintage Port was made in 1934 and it was the best Bordeaux vintage of the decade. For Burgundy, it was the second best vintage of the 1930s (after 1937).

  • 1934 Massandra Pink Muscat “Gurzuf”
    1934 Massandra Pink Muscat “Gurzuf” FUNDS FROM THE SALE OF THIS BOTTLE WILL BE DONATED TO UNICEF
    £5,000.00

1924–1914: Hundred Years Warre

High quality Port wine was made in small quantities in 1924.

Bordeaux produced an abundant crop of attractive wines that year. The 1924 Mouton Rothschild is notable as the first claret to be bottled at its château instead of – as was usual in those days – by a negociant / merchant in Bordeaux or wherever the wine ended up (London, for example). It was also the first Mouton vintage to have a bespoke artist’s label – a superb Art Deco image by Jean Carlu.

European winemakers were distracted by the outbreak of World War I in 1914. In Champagne, the German army arrived before the harvest had begun. And then the Battle of the Marne started, which lasted only a week but had a shockingly high number of casualties.

1904: A Twitch Upon the Thread

In Evelyn Waugh’s 1945 novel Brideshead Revisited, the protagonist and narrator Charles Ryder recalls a dinner in Paris:

“… for the wine I let him give me a bottle of 1906 Montrachet, then at its prime, and, with the duck, a Clos de Bèze of 1904… I rejoiced in the Burgundy. It seemed a reminder that the world was an older and better place… By chance I met this same wine again, lunching with my wine merchant in St James’s Street, in the first autumn of the war; it had softened and faded in the intervening years, but it still spoke in the pure, authentic accent of its prime, the same words of hope.”

“Words of hope” might be all that one could now expect of a 120-year old Burgundy wine, as fine as the vintage was – the best since 1887.

For many years the 1904 Bordeaux vintage was widely considered as the best year between 1900 and 1920, though it was perhaps overrated because the 1901-1902-1903 vintages were so poor and there was nothing notable until 1920.

But for Sauternes it was the first really good vintage of the 20th century.

Declared by most of the major shippers, 1904 was an outstanding Port Vintage.

To infinity and beyond… 

In the 19th century, the 1894, 1884, and 1854 vintages were excellent for Port.

The 1834 vintage is mentioned in Anthony Trollope’s The Last Chronicle of Barset:

“‘Henry,’ said the archdeacon, ‘what are you drinking? That’s ’34 port, but it’s not just what it should be. Shall I send for another bottle?’

‘It will do for me, sir. I shall only take a glass.’

‘I shall drink two or three glasses of claret. But you young fellows have become so desperately temperate.’

Despite the vineyards being devastated by Phylloxera in the middle of the century, Bordeaux produced some remarkable wines in 1874, 1864, and 1844.

William Makepeace Thackeray’s The Newcomes: Memoirs of a Most Respectable Family mentions that Mr Bagshot has “just begun to drink ‘24 claret now, that of ‘15 being scarce, and almost drunk up.”

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PROJECT FRONT FOOT: WINTER 2023/24 NEWSLETTER

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From my friend Vic Mills:

“Hi Stuart,

A relatively calm quarter by project standards with much of our energy directed – the odd collection and donation of kit apart – towards our fundraising efforts.

Project life starts to get a little busier from here on in as we gear up for our mid-March kit distribution road trip to the continent.

This is detailed in the newsletter along with updates from beneficiary clubs; a series of Mumbai retrospectives; and the eagerly awaited project picture of the year.

As ever, do feel free to share the newsletter with cricket-loving friends and colleagues.

With all good wishes for the year ahead

Vic”

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Calling Last Orders…

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’Twas the week before Christmas…

If you would like wine delivered before Christmas (and I’m sure that you do) please order today or tomorrow before the Arden Fine Wines delivery elves go on holiday 🚴.

If you place your kind order by midday on Monday 18th December (tomorrow) we will endeavour to get it on the road by Tuesday 19th at the latest.

With a few prayers and fingers and toes crossed, it should make it to you no later than Friday 22nd December.

But we make no promises for orders placed on Tuesday or Wednesday or Thursday… ☹️

(Though we will of course be doing everything we can to ensure your wines get to you in good time.)

CHRISTMAS WINE SIX-PACKS

CHOCOLATE & WINE BUNDLES

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Baskets of Cheer(s)

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“Are you hanging up your stocking on your wall…?”

“The Vine” by Valentino Monticello – made entirely from wine labels. 
The Arden Fine Wines delivery elves are very busy at the moment 🚴.

We’re sending wines far and wide on behalf of our clients (including bottles of Champagne to, er, Paris!) .

If you place your kind order this week we will endeavour to get it on the road the next working day and delivered the day after that.

In the meantime…

Noddy you saved the day. How can we ever repay you?

CHOCOLATE & WINE BUNDLES

CHRISTMAS WINE SIX-PACKS

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Winter Winederland | Chocolates and wines for Christmas

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Give something clever this Christmas… 🍷

Arden Fine Wines is offering some of our delicious bottles paired with our friend Chantal Coady’s amazing chocolates.

Her “Robin Eggs” are hazelnut pralines with Ecuadorian-origin chocolate, made for Chantal in France.

With the 12 eggs (140g total) is your choice of sparkling, white, or red wine.

Each bottle of wine will be packaged in a black satin silk-effect carton, with the eggs in a lovely box designed by Madeleine Floyd.

Just let us know if you’d like to enclose a message with the wine and chocolate.

(NB: No Robins were disturbed in the production of these eggs.)

Our Christmas Six-Pack contains two bottles each of Mirabello Prosecco, Araldica Cortese, Araldica Barbera, and a bottle of Krohn Tawny Port.

The Mirabello Prosecco, Araldica Cortese, and Araldica Barbera are made by the Castelvero co-operative winery, founded in 1954 at Antica Contea di Castelvero, the ancient name of Castel Boglione in the Monferrato hills, about 60 miles south-east of Turin.

All three of these wines are  super-fresh and easy to drink by themselves or with any type of food.

The Krohn Tawny Port doesn’t need to be decanted –  just pull and pour.

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Gift vouchers and customised gift boxes for Christmas

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Arden Fine Wines has the perfect Christmas gift for over-18s…

An Arden Fine Wines Gift Voucher can be redeemed against anything in our list and can be used multiple times until the complete amount has been redeemed, with no expiry date.

We also offer customised wooden gift boxes, embossed with your personal Xmas message.

Each box has a rope carry handle and contains wood wool filling.

All of our wooden boxes are manufactured in the UK and use sustainably-sourced wood.

When you order, please let us know what name, year, and message you would like on the box.

For example, the box here was ordered like this:

  • Name: Stuart George
  • Year: 1974
  • Middle message: A fine vintage
  • Bottom message: Many Happy Returns
Please note that the bottle of Domaine de Chevalier 1974 shown here is purely for illustrative purposes – no wine is included with the customised boxes.

Please order your wine separately here.

And please allow five working days for delivery of your customised wooden wine box – it’s made to order so it takes a few days to get it done.

If you have any queries or would like some advice on what wine to choose then please drop us a line – we’re here to help.

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Wine & chocolate gifts for Christmas

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For Christmas (yes, it’s here again…) Arden Fine Wines is offering some of our delicious wines paired with our friend Chantal Coady’s amazing chocolates.

Chantal is the “Chocolate Detective”.

A sustainable chocolate expert, founder of Rococo Chocolates and lifelong chocolate activist, she was awarded an OBE in the Queen’s 2014 Birthday Honours.

Her “Robin Eggs” are part of the Chocolate Detective’s “Curated Collection” – Chantal’s favourites from a lifetime of tasting chocolate.

The eggs are hazelnut pralines with Ecuadorian-origin chocolate, made for Chantal in France.

With the 12 eggs (140g total) is your choice of sparkling, white, or red wine:
Mirabello Prosecco Spumante Brut NV
A Brut (dry) Prosecco, so no more than 1.2% sugar.
At just 11.5% alcohol, it’s good clean fun that can be enjoyed with Vegan friends (and Robin Eggs).
Araldica Piemonte Cortese 2022
Our “house white” comes from the Monferrato hills to the south east of Turin.
Lime-scented, with fresh off the vine acidity.
Perfect with white meat, salads, fish, shellfish – or Robin Eggs.
Araldica Piemonte Barbera 2022
Our “house red” also comes from the Monferrato hills to the south east of Turin.
It’s made from the Barbera grape variety, which produces crisp, smooth, easy to drink red wine – ideal with Robin Eggs.
All three wines are super-fresh, super-crisp, and super-good with chocolate.

Each bottle of wine will be packaged in a black satin silk-effect carton, with the eggs in a lovely box designed by Madeleine Floyd.

To ensure that the gift-boxed wine and eggs are not scrambled on their way to you we will put them in a delivery box with a lot of protective packaging.

It won’t look pretty but what’s inside will be intact, look wonderful, and reach you (or another lucky recipient) within two working days 😋. 

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