Prosecco, naturally

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Having had my senses assaulted by various “natural wines” during my recent visit to New York, I vowed never to touch the filthy things again. (Sorry Alice…)

But last week I met somebody who is planning to import Italian foods and wines into the UK. As an example of the portfolio I was shown a bottle of Ricardo Zanotto’s bottle-fermented Col Fondo Prosecco.

“Col fondo” translates as “with the bottom” – that is, the wine has sediment in it and is as cloudy as the Piave river, which is not something that I expect or have ever seen with a Prosecco. I was also intrigued by the DOC Treviso designation of this wine, which I can’t recall seeing on a Prosecco label before – though it’s not uncommon. There is no vintage declared but it is a de facto 2009 wine.

The Zanotto had the characteristic softness and frothiness of Prosecco but was much fuller and longer and more vinous – a proper wine.

Of course not all natural wine is bad (or good) but this esoteric fizz has restored my faith in what is possible when going natural. Alice and her friends are drinking the wrong wines!

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